Wednesday, May 4, 2016
May 4 part one
We reached entrance to Grand Canyon NP. No not access to cell service or WIFI for 4-6 days. Don't worry we are doing great.
May 3 - perfect weather!
Camped at 669.6
In P Pines and Gamble's Oaks, on the edge of a gentle escarpment, with a view to a bit of the distant Grand Canyon North Rim cliffs. Very fun to get a view of the Big Ditch, a major milestone.
First day of the trip, we think, with absolutely perfect weather. 100% sun, high of about 60 or maybe 65, calm to a gentle breeze.
Pinyon/junipers all morning, then we gained 500 or a thousand feet and transitioned back into primarily Ponderosa Pines. Doesn't take much altitude change to give us a different forest type. First Cedar Waxwings of the trip.
Very easy walking all day with little altitude change and good trail tread, most of it on dirt roads (saw one rancher truck go by). Because of the good weather, easy walking, and light packs (2 days of food), we walked all day at a comfortable but pretty speedy (for us) clip -- darn near 30 miles. Maybe the farthest we've ever walked with backpacks.
Tomorrow, Wednesday, we pick up a package at Tusayan General Store, then sit down for pizza and salad. A few miles after that we face the crowds at the GC South Rim, with hopes of getting a backcountry permit to camp under the rim on our crossing of the canyon. If no permits are available we'll have to cross in a single day - doable, but a shame not to linger a bit in the grandeur.
We are happy and healthy.
P.S. Our good flashlight went AWOL for 36 hours causing great consternation. It's important to have a process whereby things don't get left behind. For a mid-day snack stop today I got out the bag of Gummy Worms and found the flashlight in the bag with the worms. Go figure.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.917443,-111.900211(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+May+3+2016+06:58+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
In P Pines and Gamble's Oaks, on the edge of a gentle escarpment, with a view to a bit of the distant Grand Canyon North Rim cliffs. Very fun to get a view of the Big Ditch, a major milestone.
First day of the trip, we think, with absolutely perfect weather. 100% sun, high of about 60 or maybe 65, calm to a gentle breeze.
Pinyon/junipers all morning, then we gained 500 or a thousand feet and transitioned back into primarily Ponderosa Pines. Doesn't take much altitude change to give us a different forest type. First Cedar Waxwings of the trip.
Very easy walking all day with little altitude change and good trail tread, most of it on dirt roads (saw one rancher truck go by). Because of the good weather, easy walking, and light packs (2 days of food), we walked all day at a comfortable but pretty speedy (for us) clip -- darn near 30 miles. Maybe the farthest we've ever walked with backpacks.
Tomorrow, Wednesday, we pick up a package at Tusayan General Store, then sit down for pizza and salad. A few miles after that we face the crowds at the GC South Rim, with hopes of getting a backcountry permit to camp under the rim on our crossing of the canyon. If no permits are available we'll have to cross in a single day - doable, but a shame not to linger a bit in the grandeur.
We are happy and healthy.
P.S. Our good flashlight went AWOL for 36 hours causing great consternation. It's important to have a process whereby things don't get left behind. For a mid-day snack stop today I got out the bag of Gummy Worms and found the flashlight in the bag with the worms. Go figure.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.917443,-111.900211(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+May+3+2016+06:58+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Monday, May 2, 2016
May 2 - from Snowlandia to Mudville
Camped at 639.9
Five star view from camp - snow covered Mt Humphreys in full view, good sunset, excellent cloud show.
First pronghorn antelope of the trip.
More bear poop.
Really cold this morning. The socks hanging inside the tent were frozen solid, and my wet shoes under the fly were frozen solid. We both slept, but I think if it had been 5 degrees cooler it would have been a long night with little sleep.
Serious sticky mud for a couple hours this morning, after the ground thawed. We had descended to an altitude where there was little to no remaining snow, but the mud was a bit of a bother.
Easy walking in great weather. Thunder and rain and big black clouds were behind us and above and around the SF Peaks (of which Mt. Humphrey's is the dominant feature), but we were out of the mountains and just north of the rain.
Happy and healthy, excepting Jim has intermittent back pain that is unpleasant but not debilitating.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.623733,-111.798873(I+Am+Here+Monday+May+2+2016+06:09+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Five star view from camp - snow covered Mt Humphreys in full view, good sunset, excellent cloud show.
First pronghorn antelope of the trip.
More bear poop.
Really cold this morning. The socks hanging inside the tent were frozen solid, and my wet shoes under the fly were frozen solid. We both slept, but I think if it had been 5 degrees cooler it would have been a long night with little sleep.
Serious sticky mud for a couple hours this morning, after the ground thawed. We had descended to an altitude where there was little to no remaining snow, but the mud was a bit of a bother.
Easy walking in great weather. Thunder and rain and big black clouds were behind us and above and around the SF Peaks (of which Mt. Humphrey's is the dominant feature), but we were out of the mountains and just north of the rain.
Happy and healthy, excepting Jim has intermittent back pain that is unpleasant but not debilitating.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.623733,-111.798873(I+Am+Here+Monday+May+2+2016+06:09+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Sunday, May 1, 2016
May 1 -snow on May Day
Camped at 618.7 near a cattle trough in an open meadow with scattered trees and nice views.
2-3" of fresh snow when we woke up at 8000'. Snowing lightly and continuously all morning.
By the time we reached our lunch stop at 8800' at 11:00 there was 7" on the ground.
At 9200' (high point) at 2:00 there was 14" of fresh snow. Little to no additional snowfall. Late afternoon sunny skies emerged.
Camped tonight on packed snow at 7700', where there is about 6" on the ground. It was melting when we arrived but at sunset temps dropped to freezing and we should have icy crust tomorrow morning.
Very beautiful winter wonderland, but kind of a nuisance to walk through. We descend another 1000' tomorrow, and that may get us out of snow.
Happy and healthy and snug in our little nest.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.418650,-111.702081(I+Am+Here+Sunday+May+1+2016+06:35+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
2-3" of fresh snow when we woke up at 8000'. Snowing lightly and continuously all morning.
By the time we reached our lunch stop at 8800' at 11:00 there was 7" on the ground.
At 9200' (high point) at 2:00 there was 14" of fresh snow. Little to no additional snowfall. Late afternoon sunny skies emerged.
Camped tonight on packed snow at 7700', where there is about 6" on the ground. It was melting when we arrived but at sunset temps dropped to freezing and we should have icy crust tomorrow morning.
Very beautiful winter wonderland, but kind of a nuisance to walk through. We descend another 1000' tomorrow, and that may get us out of snow.
Happy and healthy and snug in our little nest.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.418650,-111.702081(I+Am+Here+Sunday+May+1+2016+06:35+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Apr 30 - snowing
Camped near 596.3. A bit off route because there is a minor diversion due to forestry operations to thin the area. Schultz Pass at about 8000'.
Extra lucky with weather today. Short period of pretty solid rain while we were indoors at Safeway this morning. Early afternoon a storm system moved in from the south, but we were in the rain-shadow on the lee side of Mount Elden and we had no wind, very light rain, and no lightning. It looked much less pleasant not far from us. Drippy but not soggy off and on in the afternoon, but not raining while we set up the tent. Snow started around sunset after we were snugly tucked inside. We'll have a surprise in the morning when we find out if it's a half inch or several inches.
As always, we're very happy with our decision to carry a great little storm-worthy shelter. We suspect Nicole had to bail, as she had a terrible cold and condensation-wet night just before Mormon Lake in her single-wall shelter with no roof vent. Given the forecast for ongoing cold and potential rain she wouldn't be snug and warm at night.
First small groves of aspen, in beautiful fresh spring leaves.
First Lewis' Woodpecker and Pinyon Jays of the trip.
A few spruce trees on the wet north slope, otherwise P Pines with some juniper.
Great lunch at Mary's Cafe on Highway 89 NE of Flagstaff.
All in all a very fine day. Happy, healthy, warm and snug. Very happy we met Rob and spent time visiting; great conversation and great hospitality. We are oh so lucky.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.282663,-111.634482(I+Am+Here+Saturday+April+30+2016+06:28+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Extra lucky with weather today. Short period of pretty solid rain while we were indoors at Safeway this morning. Early afternoon a storm system moved in from the south, but we were in the rain-shadow on the lee side of Mount Elden and we had no wind, very light rain, and no lightning. It looked much less pleasant not far from us. Drippy but not soggy off and on in the afternoon, but not raining while we set up the tent. Snow started around sunset after we were snugly tucked inside. We'll have a surprise in the morning when we find out if it's a half inch or several inches.
As always, we're very happy with our decision to carry a great little storm-worthy shelter. We suspect Nicole had to bail, as she had a terrible cold and condensation-wet night just before Mormon Lake in her single-wall shelter with no roof vent. Given the forecast for ongoing cold and potential rain she wouldn't be snug and warm at night.
First small groves of aspen, in beautiful fresh spring leaves.
First Lewis' Woodpecker and Pinyon Jays of the trip.
A few spruce trees on the wet north slope, otherwise P Pines with some juniper.
Great lunch at Mary's Cafe on Highway 89 NE of Flagstaff.
All in all a very fine day. Happy, healthy, warm and snug. Very happy we met Rob and spent time visiting; great conversation and great hospitality. We are oh so lucky.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.282663,-111.634482(I+Am+Here+Saturday+April+30+2016+06:28+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Friday, April 29, 2016
Apr 39 - Flagstaff
Left trail at mile 579.6 to spend an evening at Rob's home in Flagstaff. We met Rob on the trail a ways back. He was out with a friend hiking one 200 mile section and we walked with them for a couple of miles. We enjoyed visiting with him on the trail, and again in Flagstaff very much.
Yesterday to our great delight and surprise we found a gallon of water on the side of the trail with a note from Rob. We gave him a call, and connected for dinner and a nice evening visit. We're lucky we crossed paths.
Today we took a 2 mile RT side trip to Visit Walnut Canyon National Monument. Thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, it's a real treasure. We saw our first Clark's Nutcracker of the trip there.
One or two squalls today while we were under cover at a Walnut Canyon, else glorious weather.
Stayed up way past our bedtime. Happy, healthy, and sleepy.
Yesterday to our great delight and surprise we found a gallon of water on the side of the trail with a note from Rob. We gave him a call, and connected for dinner and a nice evening visit. We're lucky we crossed paths.
Today we took a 2 mile RT side trip to Visit Walnut Canyon National Monument. Thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, it's a real treasure. We saw our first Clark's Nutcracker of the trip there.
One or two squalls today while we were under cover at a Walnut Canyon, else glorious weather.
Stayed up way past our bedtime. Happy, healthy, and sleepy.
Thursday, April 28, 2016
Apr 28 - unexpected sun
Camped at mile 564.9
A few tiny snow flurries this morning, then mostly sunny, all breezy, and quite cool. Very glad it didn't rain during the day. Just starting to drizzle now at dusk.
Beautiful trail scenery, good birds, easy walking. Between yesterday and today we've seen 11 new species of birds for the trip. It's fun to be in new habitat!
Since reaching the plateau a few days ago we've frequently seen the most beautiful of all squirrels: Abert's Squirrel. A tassel eared squirrel with great plumage and cool ears.
Happy, healthy, warm and snug in our comfy little nest.
Wednesday, April 27, 2016
Apr 27 - Pink Floyd
Camped at 541.8, in a not yet open for the season USFS Campground. The campground host is set up and the water system has been turned on, and their summer season will start soon.
Another easy day of walking in P Pine forest. We took a 2 mile R/T side trip to quiet Mormon Lake Resort (whose lake has been mostly dry for the last fifteen years likely due to climate change) to pick up a package, shower, and wash our clothes. The ever-present Joerg was there too, as well as Nicole plus two pairs of thru-hikers we had not previously met. All great fun to socialize at the store and the washing machines. No hot meal though, as their season has not really started yet.
One of the hikers we laundered with, Jessica aka YogaBird, rescued a plastic Pink Flamingo at the Dollar General Store in Superior, and it rides in the back pocket of her pack. He gets out at all the water sources for a photo-op. His name is Pink Floyd. He's extremely good looking and would fit right in at the Metaphor flamingo garden.
We are happy and healthy and enjoying very cool perfect walking weather. Forecast, however, is for snow or cold rain off and on for a few days, and we didn't come to Arizona for Scottish hiking conditions. We'll see what actually comes to pass.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.942754,-111.493765(I+Am+Here+Wednesday+April+27+2016+08:05+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Another easy day of walking in P Pine forest. We took a 2 mile R/T side trip to quiet Mormon Lake Resort (whose lake has been mostly dry for the last fifteen years likely due to climate change) to pick up a package, shower, and wash our clothes. The ever-present Joerg was there too, as well as Nicole plus two pairs of thru-hikers we had not previously met. All great fun to socialize at the store and the washing machines. No hot meal though, as their season has not really started yet.
One of the hikers we laundered with, Jessica aka YogaBird, rescued a plastic Pink Flamingo at the Dollar General Store in Superior, and it rides in the back pocket of her pack. He gets out at all the water sources for a photo-op. His name is Pink Floyd. He's extremely good looking and would fit right in at the Metaphor flamingo garden.
We are happy and healthy and enjoying very cool perfect walking weather. Forecast, however, is for snow or cold rain off and on for a few days, and we didn't come to Arizona for Scottish hiking conditions. We'll see what actually comes to pass.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.942754,-111.493765(I+Am+Here+Wednesday+April+27+2016+08:05+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Tuesday, April 26, 2016
Apr 26 - Ponderosa Pines
Camped at 517.5
All Ponderosa Pine all the time
Easy walking
Ice in the water bottles this morning
Happy and healthy
Nighty night
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.762241,-111.326119(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+April+26+2016+07:48+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
All Ponderosa Pine all the time
Easy walking
Ice in the water bottles this morning
Happy and healthy
Nighty night
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.762241,-111.326119(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+April+26+2016+07:48+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Monday, April 25, 2016
Apr 25 - on the Plateau
Camped at 493.9 on cool windy evening with snow flurries. Cool and windy all day. The colder weather is a welcome change. The howling wind makes it hard to find birds, sometimes even hard to think. But we found a most unexpected and most beautiful male Red-faced Warbler, and that is a hellofa good looking boy.
Also saw a beauty of a snake , photo may not do it justice
We climbed to the top of the Mogollon Rim and are now on the Colorado Plateau, where we will remain for the duration, excepting the grand crossing of The Big Ditch.
Happy and healthy snuggled in our warm sturdy tent.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.566831,-111.224034(I+Am+Here+Monday+April+25+2016+06:25+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Also saw a beauty of a snake , photo may not do it justice
We climbed to the top of the Mogollon Rim and are now on the Colorado Plateau, where we will remain for the duration, excepting the grand crossing of The Big Ditch.
Happy and healthy snuggled in our warm sturdy tent.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.566831,-111.224034(I+Am+Here+Monday+April+25+2016+06:25+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
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