The Baxter Pass trip had glorious weather and scenery, and I craved more. The season in the Sierras is short, so we quickly mapped another trip. This one was an easy-to-plan and easy-to-execute hike on the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail.
Steve dropped us at Ebbett's Pass and we walked southbound for 5.5 days on the PCT to Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite NP. We had hiked parts of this in past years, but about half was new to us.
We had perfect weather: bluebird skies, pleasantly cool days, light frost at night. Aspens were golden and the high meadow ground cover was in full autumnal colors. Hours after we finished a cold front arrived with cold temps, clouds, and an inch or two of snow. Our timing was perfect.
The scenery was all fine, and included one expected delightful surprise. For the 10 miles south of Sonora pass the trail stays on or near the top of a volcanic ridge. The views were vast and the sense of space was grand (see photo). It is completely different than the granitic Sierras that we already know and love.
We met about 10 other hikers along the way, all of whom were thru-hiking the PCT. 4 French in one group; 2 Canadians, both solo; 1 solo young German woman; a pair of young American women; a pair of American brothers. We enjoyed visiting with them. They all seemed at-ease and happy, and surprisingly unconcerned about the impending onset of winter. September is grand in these mountains, but October is the shoulder season and can bring serious snow.
We bussed up from Lee Vining to Reno to visit Linda and Ray yesterday. And now we're headed home to finish the final steps in remodeling our kitchen, to see our bears, and to play some Pickleball!
Tuesday, October 4, 2016
Sep 12-19 - Sierra from Baxter Pass
It had been far too long since we had hiked in our favorite range of mountains, the Sierra Nevada. Shortly after returning from the Colorado Trail hike Jim started planning a mostly off trail route in the High Sierra.
We took a 7.5 day hike loop hike, starting from the infrequently used Baxter Pass Trailhead, through the most beautiful mountains we know. A few hours of light snow, otherwise all glorious sun and crisp autumn days. Life does not get better than September hiking in the Sierra Nevada.
We traversed two peaks (Mt Baxter and Mt Gould), climbed a third as a short side trip (Colosseum Peak), and Jim climbed three more (Perkins, Cotter, Bago) while I waited at nearby lakes. Jim likes climbing peaks a lot. I like the lake basins right at tree-line a lot. We also crossed an unnamed col that we christened Bed Bear Pass in honor of our friends at home.
During short legs on the heavily used John Muir Trail we saw many dozens of hikers. While off-trail (~90% of our trip) we met only two hikers, Ben and Nadine, who were happily hiking Alan's Southern Sierra High Route. We had a nice short visit with them, and Nadine lives near us so we'll be able to see her again.
I didn't feel inspired to write our usual nightly blog post, thus this single summary. Tappity tapping in the wilderness doesn't feel right.
Tuesday, August 23, 2016
Aug 23 - all done
We finished up this morning with a walk through oak/conifer forest in fine weather. Spent the day in Durango with Kent and Shawna (friends of friends) which was a real treat. Great people. There was healthy wind and rain for most of the afternoon, so we consider ourselves lucky that we were indoors watching birds through the window instead of walking through the rain.
Monday, August 22, 2016
Aug 22 - almost done
Camped at 476.1, 8 miles from the end. We'll finish this hike Tuesday morning.
Marvelous ridge walk this morning up at 12,000', followed by a long descent through thick steep forests. We were off the ridge before the thunder, and happy about that. Less than optimal campsite, but the options are limited due to very steep and heavily vegetated terrain.
Healthy, happy, tired.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.366650,-107.966928(I+Am+Here+Monday+August+22+2016+07:18+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Marvelous ridge walk this morning up at 12,000', followed by a long descent through thick steep forests. We were off the ridge before the thunder, and happy about that. Less than optimal campsite, but the options are limited due to very steep and heavily vegetated terrain.
Healthy, happy, tired.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.366650,-107.966928(I+Am+Here+Monday+August+22+2016+07:18+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Sunday, August 21, 2016
Aug 21 - more nice trail and flowers
Camped at mile 455.8, nice forested site on top of an open forested ridge.
More great flower displays. Quite a few people out enjoying weekend day hikes and bike rides (same true yesterday). Terrific walking on top of forested (live spruce trees) ridge with big views of rolling mountains and flowery hillsides.
Sun in morning. 100% clouds with some light rain and a fair bit of thunder after lunch.
Happy and healthy and tucked into our little tent, warm and dry while the clouds blow around outside.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.527380,-108.032701(I+Am+Here+Sunday+August+21+2016+07:28+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
More great flower displays. Quite a few people out enjoying weekend day hikes and bike rides (same true yesterday). Terrific walking on top of forested (live spruce trees) ridge with big views of rolling mountains and flowery hillsides.
Sun in morning. 100% clouds with some light rain and a fair bit of thunder after lunch.
Happy and healthy and tucked into our little tent, warm and dry while the clouds blow around outside.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.527380,-108.032701(I+Am+Here+Sunday+August+21+2016+07:28+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Aug 20 - Flowers and Live Spruces
It's easy to be happy when the sun shines all day long.
Camped at 435.7, a 5-star dry campsite a bit off the trail. MCF James found another great campsite.
Flowers have been great, particularly this last week in the San Juan Range. Past their peak but still great.
I don't think I mentioned that for most of this hike the conifers, particularly the spruces, have been dead dead dead. Mountain after mountain of completely dead forests. Beetles. Down here they are still alive, and it is a very nice scene indeed.
We are healthy, happy, dry, and enjoying the scenery.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.706434,-107.960627(I+Am+Here+Saturday+August+20+2016+06:55+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Camped at 435.7, a 5-star dry campsite a bit off the trail. MCF James found another great campsite.
Flowers have been great, particularly this last week in the San Juan Range. Past their peak but still great.
I don't think I mentioned that for most of this hike the conifers, particularly the spruces, have been dead dead dead. Mountain after mountain of completely dead forests. Beetles. Down here they are still alive, and it is a very nice scene indeed.
We are healthy, happy, dry, and enjoying the scenery.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.706434,-107.960627(I+Am+Here+Saturday+August+20+2016+06:55+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Saturday, August 20, 2016
Aug 19 - Picked up by the sheriff
Camped at 416.7, a great site with a view and three folding chairs. Pretty sure the chairs are associated with the shepherd camped a half mile away.
The shepherd tends a huge flock of sheep, with one herding dog and several huge white guardian dogs. The guardian dogs look like those we saw in Spain, although this shepherd is Peruvian. We wonder how it all works - is the owner of the sheep required to try to hire an American before being allowed to hire an immigrant? "Wanted: shepherd with appropriate dogs skilled at managing 500 sheep in the mountains, 11000-13000' elevation, no trails, live in tent. 7x24 for three months, no time off." And when no Americans apply, and the owner wants to get a work visa for a Peruvian, does the owner also manage the immigration quarantine process for the dogs? Because it's not just any old Willie or Ruby that would work this hard and with such skill. And does that sheep owner also vote for Trump, because immigrants are stealing jobs and causing trouble? I promise nobody in the state of Colorado is working harder for less pay than this shepherd and his dogs.
About our day... Arrived at Molas Lake Campground store mid morning. Got our package, ice cream, showers. Quick easy hitch to Silverton. Burgers for lunch, groceries, more ice cream. Stick out our thumbs to return to trail, and the sheriff pulled over. You look like you could use a ride back to the trail. You betcha. Jim rode in the cage. The sheriff released him when I said I needed him to return home to finish rebuilding our kitchen.
We returned to the trail and ran into The Ladies (Kathleen and Mary, from the yurt) and John (a nice young fellow we've been leapfrogging). John woke up yesterday morning to find four moose standing around his tent; glad it wasn't us. It's fun to be traveling at the same pace as a handful of other nice people.
First and only American Dipper of the trip. We hadn't even seen Dipper poop on rocks in streams before today.
No rain, mostly sun, good scenery, nice day. Healthy, happy, clean, dry, well-fed.
Friday, August 19, 2016
Aug 18 - 2 more Weasels
Two more weasels. I am in love with that mammal. And a porcupine in camp!
For the past few days we've been above 12,000 feet in a very beautiful alpine landscape above treeline. This stretch since San Luis Peak has been by far the best walking of the trail.
This afternoon we descended and are now back in the trees. Mostly cloudy morning. Light steady rain all afternoon, no thunder.
We met Reed at the laundromat in Lake City, visited with him for a while in the yurt a couple days ago, camped a half mile from him last night, and we are sharing a site with him again tonight. He's a nice fellow. Very normal. He's not like Happy Motormouth who we met today, or Disgruntled Motormouth from a week ago.
Camped at 401.1, east end of a meadow in a nice looking gorge. Tomorrow we get a package at the Molas Lake Campground, and may hitch to Silverton for a hot meal. I think we'll arrive in Durango sometime on Aug 23.
Happy and healthy.
Wednesday, August 17, 2016
Aug 17 - 5-star cloud show
Mostly cloudy all day. At about 3:00 when it turned slate grey and started to thunder we descended off the ridge and set up the tent. We stayed warm and dry while the rain and sleet fell. About 90 minutes later we packed up and walked to a nicer campsite.
Great site with 360 degree mountains and meadows. Thick low dense clouds and fog boiling around on three sides, mostly sunny to the south. A terrific cloud show, fog like the Bay Area, but with cumulus clouds in the mix. Too cold to eat outside, but we had fine views from inside.
Second Swainson's Hawk of the trip, this time perched at the top of a nearby tree.
We are happy and healthy and warm and snug in our little nest.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.846128,-107.485967(I+Am+Here+Wednesday+August+17+2016+07:31+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Great site with 360 degree mountains and meadows. Thick low dense clouds and fog boiling around on three sides, mostly sunny to the south. A terrific cloud show, fog like the Bay Area, but with cumulus clouds in the mix. Too cold to eat outside, but we had fine views from inside.
Second Swainson's Hawk of the trip, this time perched at the top of a nearby tree.
We are happy and healthy and warm and snug in our little nest.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.846128,-107.485967(I+Am+Here+Wednesday+August+17+2016+07:31+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Tuesday, August 16, 2016
Aug 16 - Greasy Spoon and a yurt
Busy day. Laundromat, 5-star bakery, grocery, local gave us a lift to the best greasy spoon for bacon and eggs, then we hitched back to trailhead.
Beautiful open scenery and easy walking. But then the rain and threat of lightning settled in. We stopped at the Mountain Club yurt to relax and stay dry. Ate dinner and stayed a few hours. Very nice visiting with hikers Kathleen, Mary, and Reed (all normal socially well adjusted friendly and interesting). Wood stove kept us warm and happy. The surrounding mountains are now covered with a dusting of snow.
Storm broke and we set up our tent at a flat spot a few hundred yards away. Everyone will sleep better if there aren't five in the little yurt.
We're happy, healthy, well fed, clean, dry, and looking forward to what is reported to be a beautiful stretch ahead.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.913579,-107.290800(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+August+16+2016+08:06+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Beautiful open scenery and easy walking. But then the rain and threat of lightning settled in. We stopped at the Mountain Club yurt to relax and stay dry. Ate dinner and stayed a few hours. Very nice visiting with hikers Kathleen, Mary, and Reed (all normal socially well adjusted friendly and interesting). Wood stove kept us warm and happy. The surrounding mountains are now covered with a dusting of snow.
Storm broke and we set up our tent at a flat spot a few hundred yards away. Everyone will sleep better if there aren't five in the little yurt.
We're happy, healthy, well fed, clean, dry, and looking forward to what is reported to be a beautiful stretch ahead.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.913579,-107.290800(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+August+16+2016+08:06+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Monday, August 15, 2016
Aug 15 - Lake City
Left trail at the road at 357.4. Hitch to Lake City. Dinner, ice cream. Tent in the yard at the Raven's Rest Hostel.
Best walking day yet. Great mountain scenery. Loved Snow Mesa, all flowers; no grazing or jeep tracks. Clouds but no rain.
Forecast for next few days not so good.
Really tired. Healthy, happy, well fed, clean.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=38.028019,-107.316780(I+Am+Here+Monday+August+15+2016+10:15+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Best walking day yet. Great mountain scenery. Loved Snow Mesa, all flowers; no grazing or jeep tracks. Clouds but no rain.
Forecast for next few days not so good.
Really tired. Healthy, happy, well fed, clean.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=38.028019,-107.316780(I+Am+Here+Monday+August+15+2016+10:15+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Aug 14 - San Luis Peak
5 star camp, first of trip. Mile 338.9
Five star weather.
Climbed, via trail, San Luis Peak (14,014) for sunset. Returned by moonlight. 3 hours RT from tent. All good.
Happy and healthy and tired. Nighty night.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.969646,-106.927772(I+Am+Here+Sunday+August+14+2016+09:53+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Five star weather.
Climbed, via trail, San Luis Peak (14,014) for sunset. Returned by moonlight. 3 hours RT from tent. All good.
Happy and healthy and tired. Nighty night.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=37.969646,-106.927772(I+Am+Here+Sunday+August+14+2016+09:53+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Aug 13 - obsessions
Camped at 321.6, in a clearing in Aspen forest on a saddle. Nice place. Easy walking all day through cattle country at 9500-10,000 feet elevation, plus or minus. Wide open spaces and big wide views. This is the first day of open pastures, and It was very nice to have the change of scenery,
Watched a Goshawk hunting!
Spent ten minutes listening to Mr. Yackity-Yack. Wow, interesting tale but it took half an hour to let our ears recover!
We also spent time chatting with the husband of S. Huss. She is attempting a Fastest Known Time for a female, supported, on the CDT. Her goal was 50 miles per day for ten days. She finished yesterday 0.25 miles behind us (we didn't know it) after six days and 298 miles. But yesterday was a rough day and today she was not up to snuff. She passed us at 6:30pm still shy of 25 miles for the day. She has a pacer today, fresh and cheerful. She looks like a zombie stumbling around. Her husband meets her at every road crossing with an SUV full of stuff. And a friend with a jeep can intercept her on jeep tracks when necessary. Quite an ordeal. And quite an obsession. Only Tim H. would understand such crazy behavior.
We are happy and healthy, enjoying fine weather, and we do not look like stumbling zombies.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=38.097024,-106.761546(I+Am+Here+Saturday+August+13+2016+07:38+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Watched a Goshawk hunting!
Spent ten minutes listening to Mr. Yackity-Yack. Wow, interesting tale but it took half an hour to let our ears recover!
We also spent time chatting with the husband of S. Huss. She is attempting a Fastest Known Time for a female, supported, on the CDT. Her goal was 50 miles per day for ten days. She finished yesterday 0.25 miles behind us (we didn't know it) after six days and 298 miles. But yesterday was a rough day and today she was not up to snuff. She passed us at 6:30pm still shy of 25 miles for the day. She has a pacer today, fresh and cheerful. She looks like a zombie stumbling around. Her husband meets her at every road crossing with an SUV full of stuff. And a friend with a jeep can intercept her on jeep tracks when necessary. Quite an ordeal. And quite an obsession. Only Tim H. would understand such crazy behavior.
We are happy and healthy, enjoying fine weather, and we do not look like stumbling zombies.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=38.097024,-106.761546(I+Am+Here+Saturday+August+13+2016+07:38+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Friday, August 12, 2016
Aug 12 - an odd pair
Camped at 298.6, top of a ridge with view to east of the valley that contains Great Sand Dunes NM. We can see distant dunes. Nice view.
50 hours of pleasant weather.
We're chatting with 5-10 other backpackers each day, which is generally very fun. Today's selection included:
A young South African couple thru-cycling the CT.
A man we call Mr Blah Blah Blah (whole life story in 3 minutes without a pause) who retired from 30 years in USAF and now does PR for AF Academy. He has been hiking partners for two weeks now with a young Dutch woman. She could hold a bidirectional conversation. They made an odd pair, but seemed to be happy to not be traveling alone. Thru-hiking the CT.
A friendly Brit thru-hiking the whole CDT SoBo with an ultralight kit. He had time for brief chat when he learned that we had hiked the Cape Wrath Trail in Scotland; perhaps we are the only Americans he has met who even know the route exists.
A woman we call Metal Face due to the number of ornaments on her lips, tongue, ears, nose, eyebrows. Thru-hiking the CT. Not very talkative.
A normal seeming gent hiking the CT NoBo.
We are happy and healthy.
Aug 11 - great weather day
Camped at 278.4. There was a + five mile adjustment to walked trail mileage when we merged with the CT eastern alternate. Campsite next to Seven Tank Creek.
Many bicycles on the famous Monarch Crest Run. The get hauled up to Monarch Pass in a truck and then ride 20 miles more or less on trails back down towards Salida. All were polite.
Two jackasses on motorbikes on the single track trail CDT/CT going way too fast. Jerks.
No rain for the past 26 hours! Great weather day, neither got nor cold.
Goshawk!
Met a pair of women thru-hikers supported by husband in an RV. They said he's an extrovert and making friends at all the camps. I think we've crossed a road very day this trip. Some are just jeep roads, but usually a graded dirt or paved road (or two) every day. This is not really a backcountry hike, but it's great if you have a patient spouse with an RV.
We ate lunch at Marshall Pass, very near to where we ate lunch on our GDMBR bike ride. We were hoping to chat with a GDMBR rider passing while we ate, but no such luck.
We are happy and healthy.
Many bicycles on the famous Monarch Crest Run. The get hauled up to Monarch Pass in a truck and then ride 20 miles more or less on trails back down towards Salida. All were polite.
Two jackasses on motorbikes on the single track trail CDT/CT going way too fast. Jerks.
No rain for the past 26 hours! Great weather day, neither got nor cold.
Goshawk!
Met a pair of women thru-hikers supported by husband in an RV. They said he's an extrovert and making friends at all the camps. I think we've crossed a road very day this trip. Some are just jeep roads, but usually a graded dirt or paved road (or two) every day. This is not really a backcountry hike, but it's great if you have a patient spouse with an RV.
We ate lunch at Marshall Pass, very near to where we ate lunch on our GDMBR bike ride. We were hoping to chat with a GDMBR rider passing while we ate, but no such luck.
We are happy and healthy.
Thursday, August 11, 2016
Aug 10 - just past half-way point
Camped at 261.5. Top of a hill behind the Monarch Crest Store. Nice campsite. We had a resupply package at the store, so we moved our little fannies along at a rapid clip to get there before their 6PM closing, only to find that they closed at 8PM. Super friendly family run store. Bacon and egg sandwiches and ice cream for dinner.
It rained gently with very strong winds for the last couple hours approaching the store, so we were happy to have a warm dry place to spread out our stuff.
Up there with the best scenery of the trip today, including a multi-mile stretch of open ridge.
We saw another weasel and another big boy moose, not together. Excellent.
Happy and healthy.
It rained gently with very strong winds for the last couple hours approaching the store, so we were happy to have a warm dry place to spread out our stuff.
Up there with the best scenery of the trip today, including a multi-mile stretch of open ridge.
We saw another weasel and another big boy moose, not together. Excellent.
Happy and healthy.
Wednesday, August 10, 2016
Aug 9 - finally a Rosy Finch
Camped on an old rail bed (photo). Mile 240. Dinner with a nice young man thru-hiking (the first thru hiker we have met in a week) the CT, his first multi-night backpacking trip.
Left trail today for 6 miles to hike on top of the adjacent ridge. Three 13,000 foot+ summits. Good views. No thunderstorms. Felt like we were in the mountains.
And finally saw Brown-capped Rosy Finches, a life bird. Only saw them above 13,000 feet.
At camp we watched a weasel hunting for five minutes in nearby hillside. We've only seen weasels a few times, so this was a big deal for us. Lithe, beautiful, fast-moving, alert, stunning little fellow. Nothing like our bear Weasel.
We are happy and healthy.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=38.649937,-106.404771(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+August+9+2016+08:39+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Left trail today for 6 miles to hike on top of the adjacent ridge. Three 13,000 foot+ summits. Good views. No thunderstorms. Felt like we were in the mountains.
And finally saw Brown-capped Rosy Finches, a life bird. Only saw them above 13,000 feet.
At camp we watched a weasel hunting for five minutes in nearby hillside. We've only seen weasels a few times, so this was a big deal for us. Lithe, beautiful, fast-moving, alert, stunning little fellow. Nothing like our bear Weasel.
We are happy and healthy.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=38.649937,-106.404771(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+August+9+2016+08:39+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Aug 8 - Rusty the Couch
Stopped early because the next stretch is all on exposed ridge where camping is not safe in thunderstormy mountains like these.
Nice scenery and nice camp. Mile 220.4.
Crossed Cottonwood Pass at the busy vista point parking lot. Van from Tennessee with four women, one man, two dogs, and Rusty the Couch. And a table with marshmallows and adult beverages. Quite a hoot!
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=38.811367,-106.416300(I+Am+Here+Monday+August+8+2016+06:15+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Nice scenery and nice camp. Mile 220.4.
Crossed Cottonwood Pass at the busy vista point parking lot. Van from Tennessee with four women, one man, two dogs, and Rusty the Couch. And a table with marshmallows and adult beverages. Quite a hoot!
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=38.811367,-106.416300(I+Am+Here+Monday+August+8+2016+06:15+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Monday, August 8, 2016
Aug 7 - Jim climbs Quail Mountain
Conserving battery so short posts and no photos.
This morning Jim climbed Quail Mountain, 13461 feet, from Hope Pass. No quail were observed.
Great weather. Nice socializing. Happy healthy and going to sleep.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=38.891558,-106.468178(I+Am+Here+Sunday+August+7+2016+08:52+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
This morning Jim climbed Quail Mountain, 13461 feet, from Hope Pass. No quail were observed.
Great weather. Nice socializing. Happy healthy and going to sleep.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=38.891558,-106.468178(I+Am+Here+Sunday+August+7+2016+08:52+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Sunday, August 7, 2016
Aug 6 - love notes
Nicest camp so far at mile 189.6, about 12,000 feet at tree line, next to a small lake. View of the distant town of Leadville.
Stopped at Twin Lakes store for a resupply package. Lunch at a food truck parked at the gift shop. Hummingbird feeders with dozens of zooming hummers. Fun.
Near Twin Lakes the CT splits for a hundred miles or so. We're taking the west route. The official routing takes a long loop around the east end of a reservoir which seemed dumb to us. So we took a shortcut by wading across an easy knee deep river. That took us directly to the Western alternate and cut out 5 or 7 miles of pretty pointless trail near the road and reservoir.
Weather was glorious. Clouds in the morning but not low grey socked in clouds. No rain. Mostly sunny afternoon. All our stuff is dried out. We even ate dinner outside.
Jim left a little love note for me on the trail today. Sweet. We are healthy and happy.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.027623,-106.403471(I+Am+Here+Saturday+August+6+2016+08:01+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Stopped at Twin Lakes store for a resupply package. Lunch at a food truck parked at the gift shop. Hummingbird feeders with dozens of zooming hummers. Fun.
Near Twin Lakes the CT splits for a hundred miles or so. We're taking the west route. The official routing takes a long loop around the east end of a reservoir which seemed dumb to us. So we took a shortcut by wading across an easy knee deep river. That took us directly to the Western alternate and cut out 5 or 7 miles of pretty pointless trail near the road and reservoir.
Weather was glorious. Clouds in the morning but not low grey socked in clouds. No rain. Mostly sunny afternoon. All our stuff is dried out. We even ate dinner outside.
Jim left a little love note for me on the trail today. Sweet. We are healthy and happy.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.027623,-106.403471(I+Am+Here+Saturday+August+6+2016+08:01+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Friday, August 5, 2016
Aug 5 - Doing Miles
Some days you just do miles. Socked in with low hanging clouds all day. In forest all day. Tim says this piece is his favorite part of Colorado. Maybe there were views of the adjacent big mountains, but we just saw grey. Rain from noon until 7pm. Only 8 species of birds today, a new record low.
Camped at 165.4
We have considered climbing Mt. Elbert tomorrow; it is one of the 14'ers near the Colorado Trail, but the weather doesn't look very promising.
We are healthy, happy, and now warm and dry after a cool wet day.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.189524,-106.428313(I+Am+Here+Friday+August+5+2016+07:35+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Camped at 165.4
We have considered climbing Mt. Elbert tomorrow; it is one of the 14'ers near the Colorado Trail, but the weather doesn't look very promising.
We are healthy, happy, and now warm and dry after a cool wet day.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.189524,-106.428313(I+Am+Here+Friday+August+5+2016+07:35+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Thursday, August 4, 2016
Aug 4 - I love Minnesota
Camped at 145.2, in the woods next to a creek. Very light rain all day. All clouds. No wind.
Early this morning, at 12,000+ feet, while watching mama Ptarmigan with 6 adorable foraging chicks, a Pika worked his way over to Jim's shoe, climbed on top, looked around, and retreated. A minute later Pika came back, climbed up on the shoe and stated nibbling on Jim's pants, which Jim told him was not allowed. Pika retreated again. Then returned again, climbed on the shoe and looked around again. Adorable little creature. In Australia an Echidna took refuge between Jim's boots, hiding from scary things. Pika reminded us of Echidna, but Pika appeared fearless whereas Echidna was very wary and tucking into that safe hidden space between the boots.
Trying to hitch a ride to Leadville on Highway 24, several dozen cars and trucks went past. This is not Vermont, where rarely a car went by without stopping. And certainly not Turkey, where cars stopped to offer a ride even when we weren't trying to hitch. After about 15 minutes hitching, a lady stopped. Minnesota plates. Ah, make no mistake, Minnesotans are nice people. You betcha. All those Coloradans sped past, but grandma from Minnesota with her Leadville grandson gave us a lift. Apparently nobody told her that it's not safe for an old lady and a ten year old to let strangers into the car.
The laundromat in Leadville has coin-operated showers. Brilliant. We met an interesting hiker there, scruffy looking fellow with what appeared to be a disorganized collection of gear. He's walking the Colorado Trail from Denver to Salida to attend his 50th high school reunion! He lives in Georgia now, where he's a professor of Computer Science. Don't judge a book by its cover and all that. And a thought about laundromats, if you feel like you've lost touch with working-class America, you should start washing your clothes at a laundromat instead of in the privacy of your home. It's a good place to meet folks.
The pizza joint Tim recommended was in the heart of town, and we were at the laundromat and the next door Safeway a rainy mile away. That mile seemed a long walk given the rain, so we resorted to our old standard from Safeway: a roasted chicken, a bag of salad mix, and a pint of ice cream.
Hitching back to the trailhead again took several dozen cars and 15 minutes, in light rain. One truck zoomed past, passenger window rolled down and a young man screaming something at us. I believe he called us faggots, but not certain. Eventually I took off my Tilley hat, hoping my grey hair would give someone confidence that we were non-threatening. A couple cars later a woman of Jim's vintage stopped. She confirmed it was the grey-haired-lady image that did the trick! So now I know to show my head of hair while hitching.
We are happy and healthy, well fed, clean, and listening to raindrops on the tent.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.351994,-106.350091(I+Am+Here+Thursday+August+4+2016+07:16+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Early this morning, at 12,000+ feet, while watching mama Ptarmigan with 6 adorable foraging chicks, a Pika worked his way over to Jim's shoe, climbed on top, looked around, and retreated. A minute later Pika came back, climbed up on the shoe and stated nibbling on Jim's pants, which Jim told him was not allowed. Pika retreated again. Then returned again, climbed on the shoe and looked around again. Adorable little creature. In Australia an Echidna took refuge between Jim's boots, hiding from scary things. Pika reminded us of Echidna, but Pika appeared fearless whereas Echidna was very wary and tucking into that safe hidden space between the boots.
Trying to hitch a ride to Leadville on Highway 24, several dozen cars and trucks went past. This is not Vermont, where rarely a car went by without stopping. And certainly not Turkey, where cars stopped to offer a ride even when we weren't trying to hitch. After about 15 minutes hitching, a lady stopped. Minnesota plates. Ah, make no mistake, Minnesotans are nice people. You betcha. All those Coloradans sped past, but grandma from Minnesota with her Leadville grandson gave us a lift. Apparently nobody told her that it's not safe for an old lady and a ten year old to let strangers into the car.
The laundromat in Leadville has coin-operated showers. Brilliant. We met an interesting hiker there, scruffy looking fellow with what appeared to be a disorganized collection of gear. He's walking the Colorado Trail from Denver to Salida to attend his 50th high school reunion! He lives in Georgia now, where he's a professor of Computer Science. Don't judge a book by its cover and all that. And a thought about laundromats, if you feel like you've lost touch with working-class America, you should start washing your clothes at a laundromat instead of in the privacy of your home. It's a good place to meet folks.
The pizza joint Tim recommended was in the heart of town, and we were at the laundromat and the next door Safeway a rainy mile away. That mile seemed a long walk given the rain, so we resorted to our old standard from Safeway: a roasted chicken, a bag of salad mix, and a pint of ice cream.
Hitching back to the trailhead again took several dozen cars and 15 minutes, in light rain. One truck zoomed past, passenger window rolled down and a young man screaming something at us. I believe he called us faggots, but not certain. Eventually I took off my Tilley hat, hoping my grey hair would give someone confidence that we were non-threatening. A couple cars later a woman of Jim's vintage stopped. She confirmed it was the grey-haired-lady image that did the trick! So now I know to show my head of hair while hitching.
We are happy and healthy, well fed, clean, and listening to raindrops on the tent.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.351994,-106.350091(I+Am+Here+Thursday+August+4+2016+07:16+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Aug 3 - Mini-golf at Copper Mountain
We stopped at Copper Mountain ski resort, on trail, for lunch. Great beef brisket at JJs. And they have mini-golf! I played many rounds last week at the family reunion at the YMCA, but we walked right by this one. Mini-golf brings back fond childhood memories of courses in farmyards in Wisconsin.
Very very quiet all trip on the bird front. They have finished nesting, so no singing. Jim did see a Pine Grosbeak, which we have seen maybe twice before, so he was quite happy about that.
More easygoing trail today but with a healthy dose of altitude gain. We crossed two 12,000 foot passes. More good weather. And yet another day with evening showers, so dinner in the tent again. Camped at mile 127.1, at 12,000 feet, in a nice alpine site with mostly great views, excepting the big mine across the valley. Lots of wildflowers today.
Today we met "Supper Club", "Squeaks", and "Sneezer". So far, we have declined to take trail names.
We are happy, healthy, well fed, and tired.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.456850,-106.230223(I+Am+Here+Wednesday+August+3+2016+07:03+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Very very quiet all trip on the bird front. They have finished nesting, so no singing. Jim did see a Pine Grosbeak, which we have seen maybe twice before, so he was quite happy about that.
More easygoing trail today but with a healthy dose of altitude gain. We crossed two 12,000 foot passes. More good weather. And yet another day with evening showers, so dinner in the tent again. Camped at mile 127.1, at 12,000 feet, in a nice alpine site with mostly great views, excepting the big mine across the valley. Lots of wildflowers today.
Today we met "Supper Club", "Squeaks", and "Sneezer". So far, we have declined to take trail names.
We are happy, healthy, well fed, and tired.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.456850,-106.230223(I+Am+Here+Wednesday+August+3+2016+07:03+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Tuesday, August 2, 2016
Aug 2 - a bit of Austria, and Frisco too
Camped at mile 108.8. Rained lightly from 6:30 to about 7:30 pm. We tried eating dinner outside since the mosquitos were not too bad, but the rain chased us in. Other than the brief shower we had great weather.
We saw three Moose!! Very near the trail just before camp. Big boys. Like Bullwinkle!
The scenery was again OK but not special. We are in the ski town sprawl area of Silverthorne/Dillon/Frisco/Breckenridge. We passed through here on our GDMBR bike trip and didn't like the joint much then either. Towns whose raison d'etre is tourism are rarely as satisfying as a town like Guttenburg Iowa (one of our best Mississippi River stops).
Frisco did, however, have everything we needed. There's a bus stop where the trail crosses the highway, with a free bus every 30 minutes to Frisco. We rode to the Walmart where we bought a new SD card for the camera. Then across the street to a Whole Foods for the salad bar. An easy but not interesting town stop.
We encountered a pair of gnomes on the trail, which was a mere hint of the OTT (Over The Top) gardens in Austria. However, these were the first gnomes we have ever encountered in the American mountains.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.531685,-106.090597(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+August+2+2016+06:54+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
We saw three Moose!! Very near the trail just before camp. Big boys. Like Bullwinkle!
The scenery was again OK but not special. We are in the ski town sprawl area of Silverthorne/Dillon/Frisco/Breckenridge. We passed through here on our GDMBR bike trip and didn't like the joint much then either. Towns whose raison d'etre is tourism are rarely as satisfying as a town like Guttenburg Iowa (one of our best Mississippi River stops).
Frisco did, however, have everything we needed. There's a bus stop where the trail crosses the highway, with a free bus every 30 minutes to Frisco. We rode to the Walmart where we bought a new SD card for the camera. Then across the street to a Whole Foods for the salad bar. An easy but not interesting town stop.
We encountered a pair of gnomes on the trail, which was a mere hint of the OTT (Over The Top) gardens in Austria. However, these were the first gnomes we have ever encountered in the American mountains.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.531685,-106.090597(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+August+2+2016+06:54+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Monday, August 1, 2016
Aug 1 - met a Trump supporter
We went into the crossroad community of Jefferson this morning to get our resupply package. Drank tea and ate donuts. A cranky old white man came in for his morning coffee. He told us we needed to carry a gun because there are Mountain Lions in Colorado. I told him that I'm more afraid of men than lions. Especially drunk men. And extra especially drunk men with guns. He was having none of it. After we left Jim said that he thought of mentioning that more Americans will be killed today by guns than have been killed by mountain lions in the last 300 years. But the man had a Trump cap on, and that was enough evidence that he does not make rational decisions that Jim chose to keep quiet. That man is the first I have ever met that to my knowledge is a Trump supporter. I live in a bubble. A really nice bubble.
Jim read the summary of the TV show South Park last night, since we were in the area. The racist kid on the show sounded like Donald Trump.
Trail was easygoing, weather great, scenery good but not yet great. We are now walking the same route as the Continental Divide Trail, so maybe we will cross paths with some NOBO CDT hikers. We are happy and healthy.
July31 - we're in South Park
If you're following our SPOT track (link is in July 22 post) please remember a few things. Absence of data means our device has died. It does not mean we have a problem (we've had two dead SPOTs). And, if there is a SPOT message asking for help you can ignore it (unless you are Steve or Alan). My brother Steve and our friend AlanD know the protocols for what the messages mean.
Camped at mile 68.5 after 3 1/2 days of walking. Pretty consistent with our usual pace when we are on trail with excellent tread, i.e. trail that doesn't require careful footing. So far the trail has been excellent, well marked, well maintained, and well used. Very easy walking. Average gain is 200 feet per mile (and average loss of 200' per mile too). At this pace we'll finish the 485 mile trail in about 25 days. But we think we'll be out ~30 days plus or minus a few. We have not yet reached high mountains, and when we do we may take side trips. Also we'll have a half dozen town stops to slow us down -- for pizza, laundry, showers, and groceries.
Scenery so far is enjoyable but not grand. We think we'll reach grandeur in about a week. Today is Sunday, tomorrow morning we'll hitch to Jefferson for resupply.
The forecast today included rain, which didn't materialize until about 6:30 (raining now as I type from the comfort of our little nest). We had hoped to hike a ten mile ridge top alternate, at 12000 feet, above tree line. But ten miles off-trail, on top of a ridge, with thunderstorms forecast from noon to 7:00 -- that's not prudent. Our safety bears would not approve of that plan, so we stayed on the trail instead.
We are healthy and happy.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.382336,-105.727608(I+Am+Here+Sunday+July+31+2016+06:29+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Camped at mile 68.5 after 3 1/2 days of walking. Pretty consistent with our usual pace when we are on trail with excellent tread, i.e. trail that doesn't require careful footing. So far the trail has been excellent, well marked, well maintained, and well used. Very easy walking. Average gain is 200 feet per mile (and average loss of 200' per mile too). At this pace we'll finish the 485 mile trail in about 25 days. But we think we'll be out ~30 days plus or minus a few. We have not yet reached high mountains, and when we do we may take side trips. Also we'll have a half dozen town stops to slow us down -- for pizza, laundry, showers, and groceries.
Scenery so far is enjoyable but not grand. We think we'll reach grandeur in about a week. Today is Sunday, tomorrow morning we'll hitch to Jefferson for resupply.
The forecast today included rain, which didn't materialize until about 6:30 (raining now as I type from the comfort of our little nest). We had hoped to hike a ten mile ridge top alternate, at 12000 feet, above tree line. But ten miles off-trail, on top of a ridge, with thunderstorms forecast from noon to 7:00 -- that's not prudent. Our safety bears would not approve of that plan, so we stayed on the trail instead.
We are healthy and happy.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.382336,-105.727608(I+Am+Here+Sunday+July+31+2016+06:29+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
July 30 - first rain
Thunderstorm, no wind, started this evening after we set up camp. Dinner inside. Rain and mosquitos outside.
We believe 10-15 thru-hikers start in Denver each day during the peak season. There were 9 of us at the camp the first night. Since then we haven't seen anybody heading to Durango. We met a solo thru-hiker today walking toward Denver, against the main flow of traffic, and he said he's been seeing ~30 per day for the past ten days.
Lots of bikes in the trail today, it being Saturday.
Our guidebook calls the trail tags "confidence markers". Wow, that's an odd name that sounds like it was specified by a lawyer. The tag in the photo is being eaten alive.
We are happy and healthy. Camped at mile 48.0 above 10000' at the edge of a meadow. First Clark's Nutcracker of the trip; and a couple of American Three-toed Woodpeckers.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.304881,-105.492950(I+Am+Here+Saturday+July+30+2016+07:37+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
We believe 10-15 thru-hikers start in Denver each day during the peak season. There were 9 of us at the camp the first night. Since then we haven't seen anybody heading to Durango. We met a solo thru-hiker today walking toward Denver, against the main flow of traffic, and he said he's been seeing ~30 per day for the past ten days.
Lots of bikes in the trail today, it being Saturday.
Our guidebook calls the trail tags "confidence markers". Wow, that's an odd name that sounds like it was specified by a lawyer. The tag in the photo is being eaten alive.
We are happy and healthy. Camped at mile 48.0 above 10000' at the edge of a meadow. First Clark's Nutcracker of the trip; and a couple of American Three-toed Woodpeckers.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.304881,-105.492950(I+Am+Here+Saturday+July+30+2016+07:37+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Friday, July 29, 2016
July 29 - uneventful
Warm. Sunny. 6100-7700 foot elevation, mid foothills. Dry. Uneventful walk away from Denver Metro area and toward higher mountains. Camped at mile 27.5. Happy and healthy and warm.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.355324,-105.258565(I+Am+Here+Friday+July+29+2016+06:10+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=39.355324,-105.258565(I+Am+Here+Friday+July+29+2016+06:10+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
July 28 - off we go
I spent five days at Family reunion at the YMCA of the Rockies. All my siblings and in-laws and a couple dozen cousins. All descendants of the Swedish Lutheran clan in Joliet. Joanne and Michael organized and it was a total success. I have terrific relatives.
Today I met Jim at the Denver airport. We took public transit to the trailhead and away we went. All good. Camped in the oak/pine woods, 6177' elevation, mile 8.7.
It's nice to be back on the trail. Healthy and happy.
Today I met Jim at the Denver airport. We took public transit to the trailhead and away we went. All good. Camped in the oak/pine woods, 6177' elevation, mile 8.7.
It's nice to be back on the trail. Healthy and happy.
Friday, July 22, 2016
July 22 - Next Up: Colorado Trail
Next week we'll start a thru-hike of the 485 mile Colorado Trail, Denver to Durango. It should take us about a month. We rode through parts of this region on our 2007 Great Divide Mountain Bike Route journey; other than that one trip it will be new terrain for me (and mostly new for James). We're looking forward to high altitude beauty, big mountains, flowers, creeks, blue skies and afternoon thunderstorms.
Here's our CalTopo map full of all the details.
And here's a simplified CalTopo map that just shows the route and the town access points.
We'll stop occasionally to have a hot meal and resupply our food:
We'll carry a SPOT Tracker. Remember - absence of SPOT data means the device has died, it does NOT mean that we have a problem. You can view the data on a desktop computer using their (pretty crummy) SPOT website. I prefer to view it using the iPhone app Spot Buddy, which is a nice clean interface for viewing SPOT and Delorme data, and allows you to export the info to the iPhone App Gaia GPS if you're a map geek and care about that sort of thing. Our SPOT ID if using Spot Buddy is 0ecLfMlFzRSTMAUzQyKyunGxTcArU9 Vm2.
We're keeping our fingers crossed that we don't encounter any reroutes due to wildfires, and we're hoping for mild monsoon afternoon thunderstorms and nothing too severe.
Cheers, Amy & James
Here's our CalTopo map full of all the details.
And here's a simplified CalTopo map that just shows the route and the town access points.
We'll stop occasionally to have a hot meal and resupply our food:
- hitch to Jefferson
- bus to Breckenridge and/or Frisco
- hitch to Leadville
- Twin Lakes (on route)
- Monarch Crest Tramway and Gift Shop (on route) (and maybe hitch to Salida)
- hitch to Lake City
- Molas Lake Campground (on route) and probably hitch to Silverton
We'll carry a SPOT Tracker. Remember - absence of SPOT data means the device has died, it does NOT mean that we have a problem. You can view the data on a desktop computer using their (pretty crummy) SPOT website. I prefer to view it using the iPhone app Spot Buddy, which is a nice clean interface for viewing SPOT and Delorme data, and allows you to export the info to the iPhone App Gaia GPS if you're a map geek and care about that sort of thing. Our SPOT ID if using Spot Buddy is 0ecLfMlFzRSTMAUzQyKyunGxTcArU9
We're keeping our fingers crossed that we don't encounter any reroutes due to wildfires, and we're hoping for mild monsoon afternoon thunderstorms and nothing too severe.
Cheers, Amy & James
Monday, May 9, 2016
May 9 - all done
We finished the AZT this morning at 10:30 AM of day 41. Now we get our badges.
The last few miles of the AZT has views of Southern Utah red rock wonderland, which made us long for hiking in that part of the world.
S&K picked us up as planned and drove the scenic route through Zion on the return to their home. Even from a car, Zion is a magical place.
Happy, healthy, and still awake a few hours past our bedtime. Tired.
The last few miles of the AZT has views of Southern Utah red rock wonderland, which made us long for hiking in that part of the world.
S&K picked us up as planned and drove the scenic route through Zion on the return to their home. Even from a car, Zion is a magical place.
Happy, healthy, and still awake a few hours past our bedtime. Tired.
Sunday, May 8, 2016
May 8 - Almost done walking
Camped in Pinyon grove at mile 787.0
Still cloudy and windy. Because we dropped 1500 feet of elevation, the occasional precipitation today came as rain instead of snow. Not enough rain to get wet, but enough to feel frustrated that we aren't getting weather that makes you want to sit outside and enjoy a meal. We ate dinner in the tent again, this time due to wind and cool temps and threat of rain. The rain held off until we finished eating, but there's pitter-patter now.
Took a 5 mile RT side trip to Jacob Lake Inn for a hot breakfast and a telephone call to Stephanie and Kjeld , who will kindly retrieve us at the end of the trail tomorrow. I was disappointed that 20 cars on highway 89A passed 2 stinky hitchhikers without slowing down, Jim took it in stride. We ended up walking both ways, much to my surprise.
Good looks at several Kaibab Squirrels, a treat.
First Sagebrush of the trip, which is surprising to us.
First Red Crossbills of the trip. Jim keeps detailed notes about what species we see each day (photo).
Jim's Nature Note: we saw Summer Tanager near Phantom Ranch eating a small fish. Tanagers are not known to catch or eat fish, so this was a really interesting observation to us. The bird seemed to be quite happy with his meal and probably doesn't read the bird guidebooks.
We are healthy, happy, and wishing we'd had nicer weather recently. Not bad by Scottish standards, but not what we expect in May in this part of the world.
Saturday, May 7, 2016
May 7 - 25 weather flip-flops
Camped at 763.9, set up during a little hail squall.
Woke up this morning to a very light snow cover. Cool all day. 5-20 minutes of calm sun followed by 5-20 minutes of breezy snow flurries, flip flopping between the two all day long. Never enough snow to accumulate on the ground.
First half of the day was beautiful, a continuation of Spruce/Ponderosa/Aspen with great meadows and remnant snowfields in the deep shadows. Second half of the day was 11 miles through a fire zone that burned so hot it killed every tree and burned all the organic matter out of the soil - undoubtedly the result of a hundred years of fire suppression. Not like the mosaic fire zones I'm used to.
Saw our first Dusky Grouse of the trip early this morning.
Only 37 miles to go. Less than two days at our current pace. Woo hoo. Good food and cotton sheets await!
We are healthy, happy, and yet again snugly tucked into our little tent. Not much sit-around-outdoor weather! It's darn chilly outside.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=36.640712,-112.168166(I+Am+Here+Saturday+May+7+2016+05:16+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Woke up this morning to a very light snow cover. Cool all day. 5-20 minutes of calm sun followed by 5-20 minutes of breezy snow flurries, flip flopping between the two all day long. Never enough snow to accumulate on the ground.
First half of the day was beautiful, a continuation of Spruce/Ponderosa/Aspen with great meadows and remnant snowfields in the deep shadows. Second half of the day was 11 miles through a fire zone that burned so hot it killed every tree and burned all the organic matter out of the soil - undoubtedly the result of a hundred years of fire suppression. Not like the mosaic fire zones I'm used to.
Saw our first Dusky Grouse of the trip early this morning.
Only 37 miles to go. Less than two days at our current pace. Woo hoo. Good food and cotton sheets await!
We are healthy, happy, and yet again snugly tucked into our little tent. Not much sit-around-outdoor weather! It's darn chilly outside.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=36.640712,-112.168166(I+Am+Here+Saturday+May+7+2016+05:16+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Friday, May 6, 2016
May 6 - Red Rock Country views
Camped at 741.1 at 8800' on a rim.
Grand view from camp of the great expanse of red rock country. We can see Navajo Mountain and the south end of the Kaiparowits Plateau.
I love this part of the world.
One of the best campsites of the trip, maybe the best. But too cold and windy to be outside the tent for long.
Very light snow flurries several times during the day. Mostly sunny and pretty cool, maybe 40-45. It will be cold tonight, expecting ice in the water bottles tomorrow.
Excellent day, easy walking, not much elevation change, which was good because we both felt the effects of yesterday's long hike with 5k+ down and 6k+ up.
Great scenery of Spruce/Ponderosa/Aspen forests with nice meadows. Very welcoming and comfortable. Williamson's Sapsucker (pair) and American Three-toed Woodpecker were new for the trip. Copulating Flickers confirm that spring must be coming soon. Hermit Thrushes singing their ethereal songs.
We are happy, healthy and snug in our warm little nest, sheltered by trees but listening to the howling winds.
Photo of Jim on a fire tower; view of woods, but no canyon view from there.
May 5 - rim to rim
Camped near 721.2
On the north rim. We crossed rim-to-rim today, because we didn't have a permit to camp in one of the very limited below-the-rim sites along the trail corridor.
Beautiful, good weather, hard, long day. Tired. Several long days in a row.
We saw this pink Grand Canyon Rattlesnake hanging out at the Cottonwood Campground Ranger Station. Photo is for Rob,so he can see the snake enjoying the nice paint job!
Healthy and happy and tired. Nighty night.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=36.219520,-112.053691(I+Am+Here+Friday+May+6+2016+05:11+AM)&iwloc=A&z=11
On the north rim. We crossed rim-to-rim today, because we didn't have a permit to camp in one of the very limited below-the-rim sites along the trail corridor.
Beautiful, good weather, hard, long day. Tired. Several long days in a row.
We saw this pink Grand Canyon Rattlesnake hanging out at the Cottonwood Campground Ranger Station. Photo is for Rob,so he can see the snake enjoying the nice paint job!
Healthy and happy and tired. Nighty night.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=36.219520,-112.053691(I+Am+Here+Friday+May+6+2016+05:11+AM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Wednesday, May 4, 2016
May 4 - kindness to strangers
Camped at 697.6
Stealth camp in GCNP. First stealth of the trip, since BLM and USFS allow camping anywhere along the trail, but NPS does not. We couldn't face the idea of camping with the hordes and their yippy dogs inside the official campground, so we're tucked out of site. Set up after dark, break before sunrise, no lights, fires, noises - i.e. standard stealth procedures.
Another great weather day with easy walking. Primarily P Pine forest again with little elevation change.
The extra nice store manager at Tusayan General Store went way beyond the call of duty to rescue our package from the Post Office at Grand Canyon Village. Even with the proper address label and very clear instructions written on all six sides of the box the P.O. managed to screw it up and hold the box there instead of delivering it to the store. Enormous gratitude to Jeremy for sorting it out and leaving work to drive 30 minutes RT to get our package - over the top kindness to a pair of stinky strangers. Thank goodness we didn't arrive on a weekend or our package would be history.
Alarm set for 3:30 am with high hopes of reaching the rim before sunrise. Then we cross the Big Ditch.
Happy and healthy and tipsy after drinking a tall can of 8% Mike's Cranberry Lemonade. Yippee.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=36.042730,-112.109560(I+Am+Here+Wednesday+May+4+2016+07:06+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Stealth camp in GCNP. First stealth of the trip, since BLM and USFS allow camping anywhere along the trail, but NPS does not. We couldn't face the idea of camping with the hordes and their yippy dogs inside the official campground, so we're tucked out of site. Set up after dark, break before sunrise, no lights, fires, noises - i.e. standard stealth procedures.
Another great weather day with easy walking. Primarily P Pine forest again with little elevation change.
The extra nice store manager at Tusayan General Store went way beyond the call of duty to rescue our package from the Post Office at Grand Canyon Village. Even with the proper address label and very clear instructions written on all six sides of the box the P.O. managed to screw it up and hold the box there instead of delivering it to the store. Enormous gratitude to Jeremy for sorting it out and leaving work to drive 30 minutes RT to get our package - over the top kindness to a pair of stinky strangers. Thank goodness we didn't arrive on a weekend or our package would be history.
Alarm set for 3:30 am with high hopes of reaching the rim before sunrise. Then we cross the Big Ditch.
Happy and healthy and tipsy after drinking a tall can of 8% Mike's Cranberry Lemonade. Yippee.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=36.042730,-112.109560(I+Am+Here+Wednesday+May+4+2016+07:06+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
May 4 part one
We reached entrance to Grand Canyon NP. No not access to cell service or WIFI for 4-6 days. Don't worry we are doing great.
May 3 - perfect weather!
Camped at 669.6
In P Pines and Gamble's Oaks, on the edge of a gentle escarpment, with a view to a bit of the distant Grand Canyon North Rim cliffs. Very fun to get a view of the Big Ditch, a major milestone.
First day of the trip, we think, with absolutely perfect weather. 100% sun, high of about 60 or maybe 65, calm to a gentle breeze.
Pinyon/junipers all morning, then we gained 500 or a thousand feet and transitioned back into primarily Ponderosa Pines. Doesn't take much altitude change to give us a different forest type. First Cedar Waxwings of the trip.
Very easy walking all day with little altitude change and good trail tread, most of it on dirt roads (saw one rancher truck go by). Because of the good weather, easy walking, and light packs (2 days of food), we walked all day at a comfortable but pretty speedy (for us) clip -- darn near 30 miles. Maybe the farthest we've ever walked with backpacks.
Tomorrow, Wednesday, we pick up a package at Tusayan General Store, then sit down for pizza and salad. A few miles after that we face the crowds at the GC South Rim, with hopes of getting a backcountry permit to camp under the rim on our crossing of the canyon. If no permits are available we'll have to cross in a single day - doable, but a shame not to linger a bit in the grandeur.
We are happy and healthy.
P.S. Our good flashlight went AWOL for 36 hours causing great consternation. It's important to have a process whereby things don't get left behind. For a mid-day snack stop today I got out the bag of Gummy Worms and found the flashlight in the bag with the worms. Go figure.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.917443,-111.900211(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+May+3+2016+06:58+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
In P Pines and Gamble's Oaks, on the edge of a gentle escarpment, with a view to a bit of the distant Grand Canyon North Rim cliffs. Very fun to get a view of the Big Ditch, a major milestone.
First day of the trip, we think, with absolutely perfect weather. 100% sun, high of about 60 or maybe 65, calm to a gentle breeze.
Pinyon/junipers all morning, then we gained 500 or a thousand feet and transitioned back into primarily Ponderosa Pines. Doesn't take much altitude change to give us a different forest type. First Cedar Waxwings of the trip.
Very easy walking all day with little altitude change and good trail tread, most of it on dirt roads (saw one rancher truck go by). Because of the good weather, easy walking, and light packs (2 days of food), we walked all day at a comfortable but pretty speedy (for us) clip -- darn near 30 miles. Maybe the farthest we've ever walked with backpacks.
Tomorrow, Wednesday, we pick up a package at Tusayan General Store, then sit down for pizza and salad. A few miles after that we face the crowds at the GC South Rim, with hopes of getting a backcountry permit to camp under the rim on our crossing of the canyon. If no permits are available we'll have to cross in a single day - doable, but a shame not to linger a bit in the grandeur.
We are happy and healthy.
P.S. Our good flashlight went AWOL for 36 hours causing great consternation. It's important to have a process whereby things don't get left behind. For a mid-day snack stop today I got out the bag of Gummy Worms and found the flashlight in the bag with the worms. Go figure.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.917443,-111.900211(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+May+3+2016+06:58+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Monday, May 2, 2016
May 2 - from Snowlandia to Mudville
Camped at 639.9
Five star view from camp - snow covered Mt Humphreys in full view, good sunset, excellent cloud show.
First pronghorn antelope of the trip.
More bear poop.
Really cold this morning. The socks hanging inside the tent were frozen solid, and my wet shoes under the fly were frozen solid. We both slept, but I think if it had been 5 degrees cooler it would have been a long night with little sleep.
Serious sticky mud for a couple hours this morning, after the ground thawed. We had descended to an altitude where there was little to no remaining snow, but the mud was a bit of a bother.
Easy walking in great weather. Thunder and rain and big black clouds were behind us and above and around the SF Peaks (of which Mt. Humphrey's is the dominant feature), but we were out of the mountains and just north of the rain.
Happy and healthy, excepting Jim has intermittent back pain that is unpleasant but not debilitating.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.623733,-111.798873(I+Am+Here+Monday+May+2+2016+06:09+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Five star view from camp - snow covered Mt Humphreys in full view, good sunset, excellent cloud show.
First pronghorn antelope of the trip.
More bear poop.
Really cold this morning. The socks hanging inside the tent were frozen solid, and my wet shoes under the fly were frozen solid. We both slept, but I think if it had been 5 degrees cooler it would have been a long night with little sleep.
Serious sticky mud for a couple hours this morning, after the ground thawed. We had descended to an altitude where there was little to no remaining snow, but the mud was a bit of a bother.
Easy walking in great weather. Thunder and rain and big black clouds were behind us and above and around the SF Peaks (of which Mt. Humphrey's is the dominant feature), but we were out of the mountains and just north of the rain.
Happy and healthy, excepting Jim has intermittent back pain that is unpleasant but not debilitating.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.623733,-111.798873(I+Am+Here+Monday+May+2+2016+06:09+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Sunday, May 1, 2016
May 1 -snow on May Day
Camped at 618.7 near a cattle trough in an open meadow with scattered trees and nice views.
2-3" of fresh snow when we woke up at 8000'. Snowing lightly and continuously all morning.
By the time we reached our lunch stop at 8800' at 11:00 there was 7" on the ground.
At 9200' (high point) at 2:00 there was 14" of fresh snow. Little to no additional snowfall. Late afternoon sunny skies emerged.
Camped tonight on packed snow at 7700', where there is about 6" on the ground. It was melting when we arrived but at sunset temps dropped to freezing and we should have icy crust tomorrow morning.
Very beautiful winter wonderland, but kind of a nuisance to walk through. We descend another 1000' tomorrow, and that may get us out of snow.
Happy and healthy and snug in our little nest.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.418650,-111.702081(I+Am+Here+Sunday+May+1+2016+06:35+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
2-3" of fresh snow when we woke up at 8000'. Snowing lightly and continuously all morning.
By the time we reached our lunch stop at 8800' at 11:00 there was 7" on the ground.
At 9200' (high point) at 2:00 there was 14" of fresh snow. Little to no additional snowfall. Late afternoon sunny skies emerged.
Camped tonight on packed snow at 7700', where there is about 6" on the ground. It was melting when we arrived but at sunset temps dropped to freezing and we should have icy crust tomorrow morning.
Very beautiful winter wonderland, but kind of a nuisance to walk through. We descend another 1000' tomorrow, and that may get us out of snow.
Happy and healthy and snug in our little nest.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.418650,-111.702081(I+Am+Here+Sunday+May+1+2016+06:35+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Apr 30 - snowing
Camped near 596.3. A bit off route because there is a minor diversion due to forestry operations to thin the area. Schultz Pass at about 8000'.
Extra lucky with weather today. Short period of pretty solid rain while we were indoors at Safeway this morning. Early afternoon a storm system moved in from the south, but we were in the rain-shadow on the lee side of Mount Elden and we had no wind, very light rain, and no lightning. It looked much less pleasant not far from us. Drippy but not soggy off and on in the afternoon, but not raining while we set up the tent. Snow started around sunset after we were snugly tucked inside. We'll have a surprise in the morning when we find out if it's a half inch or several inches.
As always, we're very happy with our decision to carry a great little storm-worthy shelter. We suspect Nicole had to bail, as she had a terrible cold and condensation-wet night just before Mormon Lake in her single-wall shelter with no roof vent. Given the forecast for ongoing cold and potential rain she wouldn't be snug and warm at night.
First small groves of aspen, in beautiful fresh spring leaves.
First Lewis' Woodpecker and Pinyon Jays of the trip.
A few spruce trees on the wet north slope, otherwise P Pines with some juniper.
Great lunch at Mary's Cafe on Highway 89 NE of Flagstaff.
All in all a very fine day. Happy, healthy, warm and snug. Very happy we met Rob and spent time visiting; great conversation and great hospitality. We are oh so lucky.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.282663,-111.634482(I+Am+Here+Saturday+April+30+2016+06:28+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Extra lucky with weather today. Short period of pretty solid rain while we were indoors at Safeway this morning. Early afternoon a storm system moved in from the south, but we were in the rain-shadow on the lee side of Mount Elden and we had no wind, very light rain, and no lightning. It looked much less pleasant not far from us. Drippy but not soggy off and on in the afternoon, but not raining while we set up the tent. Snow started around sunset after we were snugly tucked inside. We'll have a surprise in the morning when we find out if it's a half inch or several inches.
As always, we're very happy with our decision to carry a great little storm-worthy shelter. We suspect Nicole had to bail, as she had a terrible cold and condensation-wet night just before Mormon Lake in her single-wall shelter with no roof vent. Given the forecast for ongoing cold and potential rain she wouldn't be snug and warm at night.
First small groves of aspen, in beautiful fresh spring leaves.
First Lewis' Woodpecker and Pinyon Jays of the trip.
A few spruce trees on the wet north slope, otherwise P Pines with some juniper.
Great lunch at Mary's Cafe on Highway 89 NE of Flagstaff.
All in all a very fine day. Happy, healthy, warm and snug. Very happy we met Rob and spent time visiting; great conversation and great hospitality. We are oh so lucky.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=35.282663,-111.634482(I+Am+Here+Saturday+April+30+2016+06:28+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Friday, April 29, 2016
Apr 39 - Flagstaff
Left trail at mile 579.6 to spend an evening at Rob's home in Flagstaff. We met Rob on the trail a ways back. He was out with a friend hiking one 200 mile section and we walked with them for a couple of miles. We enjoyed visiting with him on the trail, and again in Flagstaff very much.
Yesterday to our great delight and surprise we found a gallon of water on the side of the trail with a note from Rob. We gave him a call, and connected for dinner and a nice evening visit. We're lucky we crossed paths.
Today we took a 2 mile RT side trip to Visit Walnut Canyon National Monument. Thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, it's a real treasure. We saw our first Clark's Nutcracker of the trip there.
One or two squalls today while we were under cover at a Walnut Canyon, else glorious weather.
Stayed up way past our bedtime. Happy, healthy, and sleepy.
Yesterday to our great delight and surprise we found a gallon of water on the side of the trail with a note from Rob. We gave him a call, and connected for dinner and a nice evening visit. We're lucky we crossed paths.
Today we took a 2 mile RT side trip to Visit Walnut Canyon National Monument. Thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, it's a real treasure. We saw our first Clark's Nutcracker of the trip there.
One or two squalls today while we were under cover at a Walnut Canyon, else glorious weather.
Stayed up way past our bedtime. Happy, healthy, and sleepy.
Thursday, April 28, 2016
Apr 28 - unexpected sun
Camped at mile 564.9
A few tiny snow flurries this morning, then mostly sunny, all breezy, and quite cool. Very glad it didn't rain during the day. Just starting to drizzle now at dusk.
Beautiful trail scenery, good birds, easy walking. Between yesterday and today we've seen 11 new species of birds for the trip. It's fun to be in new habitat!
Since reaching the plateau a few days ago we've frequently seen the most beautiful of all squirrels: Abert's Squirrel. A tassel eared squirrel with great plumage and cool ears.
Happy, healthy, warm and snug in our comfy little nest.
Wednesday, April 27, 2016
Apr 27 - Pink Floyd
Camped at 541.8, in a not yet open for the season USFS Campground. The campground host is set up and the water system has been turned on, and their summer season will start soon.
Another easy day of walking in P Pine forest. We took a 2 mile R/T side trip to quiet Mormon Lake Resort (whose lake has been mostly dry for the last fifteen years likely due to climate change) to pick up a package, shower, and wash our clothes. The ever-present Joerg was there too, as well as Nicole plus two pairs of thru-hikers we had not previously met. All great fun to socialize at the store and the washing machines. No hot meal though, as their season has not really started yet.
One of the hikers we laundered with, Jessica aka YogaBird, rescued a plastic Pink Flamingo at the Dollar General Store in Superior, and it rides in the back pocket of her pack. He gets out at all the water sources for a photo-op. His name is Pink Floyd. He's extremely good looking and would fit right in at the Metaphor flamingo garden.
We are happy and healthy and enjoying very cool perfect walking weather. Forecast, however, is for snow or cold rain off and on for a few days, and we didn't come to Arizona for Scottish hiking conditions. We'll see what actually comes to pass.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.942754,-111.493765(I+Am+Here+Wednesday+April+27+2016+08:05+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Another easy day of walking in P Pine forest. We took a 2 mile R/T side trip to quiet Mormon Lake Resort (whose lake has been mostly dry for the last fifteen years likely due to climate change) to pick up a package, shower, and wash our clothes. The ever-present Joerg was there too, as well as Nicole plus two pairs of thru-hikers we had not previously met. All great fun to socialize at the store and the washing machines. No hot meal though, as their season has not really started yet.
One of the hikers we laundered with, Jessica aka YogaBird, rescued a plastic Pink Flamingo at the Dollar General Store in Superior, and it rides in the back pocket of her pack. He gets out at all the water sources for a photo-op. His name is Pink Floyd. He's extremely good looking and would fit right in at the Metaphor flamingo garden.
We are happy and healthy and enjoying very cool perfect walking weather. Forecast, however, is for snow or cold rain off and on for a few days, and we didn't come to Arizona for Scottish hiking conditions. We'll see what actually comes to pass.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.942754,-111.493765(I+Am+Here+Wednesday+April+27+2016+08:05+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Tuesday, April 26, 2016
Apr 26 - Ponderosa Pines
Camped at 517.5
All Ponderosa Pine all the time
Easy walking
Ice in the water bottles this morning
Happy and healthy
Nighty night
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.762241,-111.326119(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+April+26+2016+07:48+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
All Ponderosa Pine all the time
Easy walking
Ice in the water bottles this morning
Happy and healthy
Nighty night
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.762241,-111.326119(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+April+26+2016+07:48+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Monday, April 25, 2016
Apr 25 - on the Plateau
Camped at 493.9 on cool windy evening with snow flurries. Cool and windy all day. The colder weather is a welcome change. The howling wind makes it hard to find birds, sometimes even hard to think. But we found a most unexpected and most beautiful male Red-faced Warbler, and that is a hellofa good looking boy.
Also saw a beauty of a snake , photo may not do it justice
We climbed to the top of the Mogollon Rim and are now on the Colorado Plateau, where we will remain for the duration, excepting the grand crossing of The Big Ditch.
Happy and healthy snuggled in our warm sturdy tent.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.566831,-111.224034(I+Am+Here+Monday+April+25+2016+06:25+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
Also saw a beauty of a snake , photo may not do it justice
We climbed to the top of the Mogollon Rim and are now on the Colorado Plateau, where we will remain for the duration, excepting the grand crossing of The Big Ditch.
Happy and healthy snuggled in our warm sturdy tent.
https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.566831,-111.224034(I+Am+Here+Monday+April+25+2016+06:25+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11
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