Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Jul 10 - alpes

An alpe is a place in the mountains where shepherds bring their flocks during the summer. Each is a collection of stone buildings in a grassy clearing and is the base for grazing an extended area. The shepherd often makes cheese right on site. Most are now in ruins as it's not an economically viable to earn a living anymore. Many of the active alpes we've seen have been within an hour's walk of a jeep track if not right on a track. We pass at least a half dozen alpe ruins each day. We've seen about ten active sites so far. 

The rain started today at about 2:30 and lasted for two hours. Fortunately we were very near an alpe when it started and one of the three remaining stone buildings still had an intact roof and was not locked up tight. So we had nice shelter and we stayed dry while the tormenta thundered away outside. 

When the rain let up we hiked another 2 hours to reach an unstaffed rifugio, maintained by the Italian Alpine Club. 3 triple bunk beds, a stove with propane tank, a big table, and a solar powered light. We ate dinner and drank hot tea with a pair of Swiss ladies. Now we're snug in our little tent outside the building. We're in a beautiful little alpine valley with a dozen dilapidated alpe buildings. You should be able to see them in the satellite image. 

All in all a great day. According to our guide book we gained 2220 meters today. That's a lot of gain. These mountains are not for sissies. 

We're happy and healthy but wishing we didn't have to put on waterlogged shoes tomorrow morning. 

Sunday, July 9, 2017

Jul 9 - a lazy day

Down out of the mountains and into a small town, about 150 buildings. Towns are always more stressful than trails:

Will the market be open on Sundays? Yes

Will the market be closed for the ~3 hour afternoon break? We were lucky, we got there at 12:10 and it closed at 12:30.

Will the ATM work? No luck; it was removed 5 years ago. So we need to be cautious with cash until we get more.

Will we find a satisfying hot meal at a place that takes Visa card? Lucky again with terrific beef stew.

After a long lunch we continued on the path down the valley floor for two hours. Next step is a 3.5 km 1000 meter climb to a refuge. But here's the problem: it's 4:30, a thousand meters of very steep trail. We think there's probably a camping opportunity after 800 meters gain but likely not until then. And the weather is threatening. We decide to eat dinner under the shelter associated with the football pitch and see how it plays out. While we eat the sky opens, thunder roars, rain and hail pour down, and we are damn happy we hadn't started the climb.

We're happy and healthy and sleeping in the football pitch shelter.

https://maps.google.com/maps?q=46.045423,8.176463(I+Am+Here+Sunday+July+9+2017+07:40+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11

Saturday, July 8, 2017

Jul 8 - happy birthday sister

We had a hellofa day. Just swell. Thinking of Ned. 

We met German hiker, Vladimir, yesterday evening and saw him off and on today. He's out on the GTA for three weeks.  Photo below. Over the top cheerful fellow. He carries no maps (they weigh too much) and is constantly getting lost. But he seems very cheerful about it. He thinks next time he'll carry maps :) I gave him some paper maps that we can do without since we have all the maps in the phone. 

The bulk of our altitude gain (the first 1000 meters) was early before it got hot, which made Amy very happy. 

Some great mountain scenery this morning. 

Stopped at 10:00 at a rifugio for omelettes and tomato salad and bread. Yummy. The chef was preparing an enormous cauldron of polenta over an outdoor wood fire. After we left the refuge we past many dozens (>100 I think) of people out for their Saturday hike up the mountain to their polenta lunch with a view. Perfect. 

Great afternoon hiking on a muleterra (old mule track) contouring around the mountain. Arrived at another rifugio at 4:30. They serve Osso Bucco for dinner at 7:30 so we decided to call it a day. We set our tent up in a five star valley in front of the refuge. Got ourselves a half liter of vino tinto, and enjoy the refuge scene chatting with the Italians, Swiss, and Germans. 

Oh , and a hellofa rainbow while we drank our wine. 

James is happy that Amy climbed 1600 meters without complaining. And Amy is happy that James stopped "early" so we could enjoy the evening meal. 

According to our guide book the GTA is 57408 meters of gain and a bit more loss. It is 902 km long. That's 63.6 meters of gain per km. But half the km are downhill. So it's really 129 meters of gain per uphill km and 129 meters of loss per downhill km. To put it in perspective, the John Muir Trail, Arizona Trail, Colorado Trail -- those are all about half that much gain and loss per km. 

We're happy and healthy and in 20 minutes we'll be eating great food. 



Friday, July 7, 2017

Jul 7 - up and down

Amy's report: too damn hot to climb another 1400 meters. Otherwise all is great.

James' report: the birds are not cooperating at all. They are singing, but refuse to show their little heads, so we can't tell what most of them are.

We're happy and healthy and tired.

https://maps.google.com/maps?q=46.162367,8.117585(I+Am+Here+Friday+July+7+2017+08:42+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11

Jul 5 - into the mountains.

Off the Swiss Postebus and in the mountains. Everything is AOK. Warm all day. Sunny AM, partly cloudy PM, 5 drops of evening rain in camp. Walked by a big glacier this morning. Early dinner of soup and omelette at a refuge, then walk another hour to a very nice campsite.

We're happy and healthy and very tired.

Jul 6 - what a day

5 star scenery all day. Big dramatic beautiful mountains.
Bought cheese at the mountain fromagerie.

Dinner at an albergo in the Alpe Veglia valley at 1750 meters: antipasto of local cheese, ham and venison. Salad, Lasagna, polenta with red sauce and sausages, Beer and vino. Sleeping in the garden with a stunning view of Monte Leone 3552 meters, rising 800 meters above the valley floor; glacier and ice fall spilling off the mountain. Tossing the stick for the polite, eager and patient border collie who waits with great expectations outside our tent.

2 days in. We've gained 2800 meters. We need to average 1200 meters gain per day, so we seem to be on track so far.

We're happy and healthy and enjoying the fine weather and great scenery.

https://maps.google.com/maps?q=46.274422,8.147547(I+Am+Here+Thursday+July+6+2017+08:49+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11

Tuesday, July 4, 2017

Jul 4 - transit

Palo Alto to Airolo:
CalTrain - BART - BART - plane - plane - bus - train.

One more short bus ride tomorrow morning and we'll start the walking phase.

We're happy and healthy and looking forward to getting off our butts.

Type your message here...

https://maps.google.com/maps?q=46.528508,8.608680(I+Am+Here+Tuesday+July+4+2017+08:26+PM)&iwloc=A&z=11

Monday, July 3, 2017

Jul 3 - out the door

We are going to carry the Delorme Inreach device and broadcast our location. If you have nothing better to do then you can follow along.
  • On a browser, go to https://share.garmin.com/AmyBird - password is utah. Please don't hit the "Locate" or "Message" buttons on that page unless you are Steve or Alan and you are helping us in case we have a problem.
  • On an iPhone, a good way to view the data is to get the app called Spot Buddy. To set up a view of our data: create an entry for Delorme InReach; MapShare Name = AmyBird; MapShare User ID = 809140; password = utah

Thursday, June 29, 2017

Up Next: Grande Traversata delle Alpi

We are leaving soon for about seven weeks in the Alps, primarily Italy, with a bit of Switzerland and France in the mix.

Here is the map of our route: https://caltopo.com/m/M6E1 -- we will start at the north end and walk to the coast. We plan to follow the route described in the Rother GTA Guidebook.

We expect this to be a strenuous but not technically challenging route. We need to maintain a pace of 4000 feet of gain per day. That is not out of our range and we have done it before, but we are getting older and not necessarily stronger.

We are happy and healthy and very busy weighing all our gear and sorting it into boxes.

Saturday, June 10, 2017

Across Utah trip report is done

We posted our trip report

http://doingmiles.com/2017-04-across-utah/


Next up: Italian Alps. Woo hoo.